Trastevere (trahs-TAY-veh-ray) offers the best look at medieval-village Rome. Streets are narrow and tangled. The action unwinds to the chime of the church bells. This proud neighborhood was long a working-class area. Now that it’s becoming trendy, high rents are driving out some of the local color. But it’s still as close to the “real Rome” as you can get. Go there and wander. Wonder. Be a poet. This is Rome’s Left Bank.
The piazza outside the church of Santa Maria in Trastevere is the neighborhood meeting place, where kids play soccer, layabouts lay across the fountain steps, and people crowd the outdoor restaurants.
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